August, 2025
What is Polki?
Polki captures the untouched brilliance of nature, held in its raw and radiant form. Made from uncut, unpolished diamonds, Polki carries with it a story of raw elegance, old-world luxury, and timeless relevance. Let’s uncover what is Polki jewellery and why this rich craft history spanning over 2,500 years continues to captivate those with a love for heritage and craftsmanship.
Meaning and Origin of Polki Jewellery
Polki dates back to the opulent Mughal courts, where emperors and nobility adorned themselves with its rich textures and natural brilliance. The Mughal artisans perfected the techniques of setting these raw diamonds, creating masterpieces that have influenced Indian jewellery for centuries. The word Polki refers to uncut diamonds, preserved in their purest, untouched form. This jewellery style has been passed down through many generations of skilled artisans, particularly in regions like Rajasthan, Gujarat and Hyderabad and this craft continues to thrive and remains a cornerstone of Indian heritage, treasured for its rustic beauty and regal charm.
How Polki Jewellery is Made
The making of Polki jewellery is an intricate, centuries-old craft. Each piece is entirely handmade. Artisans set the uncut diamonds onto a base of lac and gold foil, often with meenakari (enamel) work on the reverse. Unlike modern diamonds, Polki stones aren’t cut or faceted. They are preserved in their organic state, which allows their natural beauty to shine through.
What Are Polki Diamonds?
Polki diamonds or polki stones are 100% real diamonds—completely natural and unrefined. They haven’t undergone any polishing or cutting processes. Their uneven surfaces, organic inclusions, and unique shapes give them an old-world radiance that makes every piece feel one-of-a-kind.
Grading and Quality of Polki Stones
Unlike modern diamonds graded on the 4Cs (Cut, Color, Clarity, Carat), Polki diamonds are evaluated based on:
Transparency: Higher quality Polki stones allow more light transmission
Surface Quality: Smoother surfaces reflect light better
Natural Shape: Well-formed natural shapes are more valuable
Origin: Diamonds from specific mines carry premium value
Open Setting vs. Close Setting
Polki stones can be set in two primary styles:
Close Setting (Traditional): Stones are embedded in a lac and gold foil base with enamel detailing on the back. This style is opulent and often seen in bridal jewellery.
Open Setting (Vilandi): The back of the diamond is left open to allow light to pass through, enhancing its brilliance. This contemporary setting is lighter, more minimal, and perfect for modern aesthetics.
Types of Polki Jewellery Settings
Not all Polki is created the same. Over time, regional techniques have evolved, each with its own way of showcasing these remarkable stones.
1. Bikaneri Setting
The Bikaneri setting is perhaps the most iconic. Named after the city of Bikaner in Rajasthan, it involves :
placing uncut diamonds onto a gold foil base to enhance their brilliance
Intricate Meenakari work on the reverse side
Lac base for secure stone placement
This style is commonly seen in Polki earrings and larger bridal sets.
2. Jadau Polki
The term Jadau derives from the Hindi word "jad," meaning to embed. This ancient technique involves:
Heating gold to a malleable state
Gently pressing uncut diamonds into the warm gold
Creating seamless integration without adhesives
Achieving incredible durability and beauty
Jadau Polki is considered the most prestigious setting, often reserved for bridal sets and ceremonial jewellery.
3. Open Setting (Vilandi Style)
The open, or Vilandi, setting leaves the back of the Polki stone exposed, allowing more light to pass through. This creates a brighter, more radiant finish. The Vilandi style is often used for lighter, contemporary pieces like Polki bangles or pendants.
Comparison with Other Diamond Settings
Unlike the sparkle of brilliant-cut diamonds, Polki offers a gentler, more diffused glow. It doesn’t flash with intensity; instead, it glows with subtle grace. This sets Polki apart from modern diamond styles and gives it a rare, old-world charm not found in conventional settings.
What is the Difference Between Polki and Kundan?
While they may look alike from afar, Polki and Kundan differ in material, look, and value.
1. Stone Used
Polki features genuine uncut diamonds. Kundan, on the other hand, typically uses glass or synthetic stones, making it more accessible but less valuable.
2. Visual Appearance
Polki stones show natural inclusions and have a soft, organic finish. Kundan has a high-polish, mirror-like shine due to its artificial stones. The difference is clear to a discerning eye.
3. Making Technique & Cost
Both styles use lac and gold foiling, but Polki requires higher craftsmanship and uses real diamonds. As a result, it is typically more expensive and seen as a long-term investment.
4. Value and Investment
Polki Jewellery are often higher priced due to the usage of genuine diamonds, while Kundan jewellery are more affordable. Since Polki Jewellery features read diamond, its value also appreciates with time.
Cultural Significance of Polki Jewellery
Polki is woven into the tapestry of Indian celebrations, carrying symbolism far beyond aesthetics.
1. Role in Indian Weddings & Bridal Jewellery
Polki wedding jewellery is a favourite among brides. Its richness pairs beautifully with bridal lehengas and sarees, and it carries cultural meaning tied to legacy, prosperity, and blessings.
2. Regional Popularity – Rajasthan, Gujarat, Hyderabad
Polki is especially prominent in Rajasthan and Gujarat, where artisans have passed down the craft for generations. Hyderabad offers a unique fusion: Polki blended with pearls and enamelling, adding a distinctive southern touch.
3. Traditional Symbolism
Polki is often associated with purity, continuity, and the sanctity of beginnings. Its use in rituals and ceremonies adds emotional depth to its visual beauty.
Why Polki Jewellery is Still in Style Today
Despite changing trends, Polki remains relevant. Its imperfect beauty resonates with modern sensibilities that value character over uniformity. Whether it’s a statement Polki necklace or a contemporary take on classic earrings, its appeal is both timeless and personal.
How to Identify Authentic Polki Jewellery
With popularity comes imitation. Knowing how to identify real Polki is essential to investing wisely.
1. Spotting Real vs. Fake Polki
Real Polki will always have subtle variations and inclusions—tiny imperfections that confirm it’s an uncut diamond. Glass imitations often look too uniform and perfect. If you look closely, you may see foil backing and delicate lac in authentic settings.
2. Certification & Trusted Sellers
Always purchase from reputable jewellers who provide certification and transparent sourcing. At Indriya, every Polki piece comes with assurance of authenticity and the promise of craftsmanship.
Discover the Beauty of Polki Jewellery at Indriya
Indriya honours the elegance of uncut diamonds through designs that feel intimate, regal, and refined. From ornate Polki necklaces to everyday earrings, our pieces are crafted to carry meaning beyond beauty.
Visit the nearest Indriya store and experience jewellery where history meets emotion, and every stone feels like it was chosen just for you.
FAQs
1. Is Polki a real diamond?
Yes. Polki diamonds are 100% real, natural diamonds that have simply not been cut or polished. Their value lies in their authenticity, craftsmanship, and heritage. Unlike synthetic or glass imitations, Polki has depth and natural imperfections that make it truly unique.
2. How can I tell if my Polki is genuine?
Look for natural inclusions, organic shapes, and proper certification.
3. What are Polki stones made of?
Polki stones are uncut, unpolished natural diamonds, valued for their raw beauty.
4. Is Polki Jewellery worth buying?
Absolutely. The craftsmanship, use of real diamonds, and traditional techniques make Polki jewellery a valuable addition to your collection. For those who cherish uniqueness and cultural richness, Polki jewellery is worth every rupee.
5. What is Polki jewellery used for?
Polki is most often worn for weddings, festivals, and milestone occasions. However, modern designs also make it suitable for daily elegance.
6. Is Polki more expensive than diamonds?
It depends on the quality and carat. While brilliant-cut diamonds are often higher in cost per carat, high-grade Polki can command significant value due to rarity and craftsmanship.
7. How do I care for my Polki jewellery?
Avoid exposure to water and harsh chemicals. Store in a soft cloth and clean gently with a dry brush.